Marie Eiffel says her Bridge Street market must close permanently unless business picks up significantly and soon.
“People think that we are super busy,” she said. “But we are not. We are dying.”
The seasonal market opened for takeout in mid-March, a month earlier than planned, to meet customer demand after the Island population swelled at the start of the COVID-19 crisis. In addition to prepared foods, Marie and her partner, Jason Penney, immediately began to offer the market’s groceries packed to order for scheduled pickup times.
And they provide takeout dinners — even on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when the market is closed — also at scheduled pickup times.
[Find details about takeout and grocery services, and place orders at the market website, https://marieeiffelmarket.com]
“People see 10 cars lined up outside and they think, they’re so busy. But that’s just 10 cars that come all at once for pickup and then there are no more later,” she said in an interview Monday.
But on a typical early summer weekend there would be a line out the door of people who flock to the market for its flaky pastries, authentic French baguettes, and freshly prepared foods made with organic ingredients. Patrons fill up the long family-style tables inside and on the waterfront deck out back, or the sidewalk bistro seating in front, creating a lively and convivial atmosphere.
The pandemic has put an end to that, at least for now. And, it’s caused the market’s other revenue streams to dry up, including catering for events, films and photoshoots, and for boats berthed at the Dering Harbor Marina next door.
“It is a big business,” Marie said about the Market. “It needs volume to survive.”
Not one to let the chips fall where they may, Marie has been calling customers to better understand why they are not buying.
“I needed to see how they felt,” she said. But their answers surprised her.
“Nobody knows I’m struggling, they all think I’m super busy,” she said. “People are going around saying ‘Oh my God, Marie Eiffel, she’s making tons of money.’ It’s not true.”
Curbside grocery service
Soon after opening in March, the market was handling large grocery orders from numerous customers, she said. But interest has waned in part, she said, because of competition from online purchasing in general, and direct competition from some of her wholesale suppliers who have expanded retail delivery on the Island.
“Of course it’s easier for the customers to have the delivery to their door, I totally get it,” she said. On the part of the suppliers, “they say they have high demand and they can’t refuse it because they’re trying to save their businesses. So everybody is right. But it’s complicated, this new world.”
The curbside grocery services require the attention of two full-time staffers and at best break even, Marie said, but they do generate ancillary sales of prepared foods, where profit margins are bigger. However, wholesale prices on some basics, like beef, are up — further cutting into profitability.
Understaffed and exhausted
And because she cannot afford to fully staff the business, she has had to forego areas of higher profitability, like coffee and espresso-based drinks.
“I can’t do the coffee beause I’m understaffed,” she said. “I don’t have a cashier. I don’t have a barista. My people are all exhausted. We don’t have a dishwasher, so we all do dishes.”
Currently, Marie employs individuals “that depend on me” from six Island households, she said. Because few hands are doing the work of many, she raised wages. But the seasonal business, which usually does not open until mid-April, had no payroll history for the months covered by the federal paycheck protection program, and was able to get only limited support from other funding schemes.
“I know this year I’m not going to make any money,” she said. “I didn’t open up in March to make money. But it would be better if I’m closed.”
Hefty year round expenses
Like all businesses here, Marie Eiffel Market has year-round expenses that must be covered by sales during the Memorial Day to Labor Day summer season. Her electric bills are substantial; the refrigerators and freezers that line the shop must be kept on whether the products in them sell or not.
And, there is rent to pay. Marie said she has given the requisite six months notice to activate her lease’s early exit provision and that she anticipates closing for good on November 1, unless things turn around.
“I chose to be on this Island as I like the community,” she said. “I chose to stay open into the winter losing money every day because I like the community. I chose to make money only in August and work seven days a week because I like the community.”
“I chose that, and I stick to my choices,” she said. “But today I can’t sustain my business. I need help.”
The market took a much needed break on Tuesday; Marie sent out an email out with the message: “No croissants … we are really tired and really closed.”
Without an increase in support, that message may soon be permanent.
Editor’s note: Businesses around the Island are hurting as a result of the pandemic, and the choices that we make as consumers affect their capacity to stay open no matter their size or what they’re selling. If you value local businesses, please think twice before ordering a product online or from a direct distributor that you can purchase right here on Shelter Island. If you have a story to share about your business, write to me at editor@shelterislandgazette.com.
